We made this a couple nights ago and I wasn’t going to post about it… but it is one of my favorite things to make, and I have a full cup of coffee in front of me and am in the mood for a good ramble, so here goes…
Back in Santa Barbara as a grad student living in near-poverty, I had this epiphany that there are places called “libraries” where they will actually give you books for free as long as you promise to bring them back later. I was running out of both shelf space for cookbooks and money with which to purchase them when I wandered into the cookbook section (good ol’ 641 in the Dewey decimal system) at the Santa Barbara library. I sat on the floor in the 641 aisle for over an hour that day poring over the books and trying to decide which ones would come home with me. I don’t remember 11 of the 12 books that I brought home that day, but the one I remember clearly is Flavors by Donna Hay.
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This is all my long-winded way of getting around to the fact that the very first recipe I ever tried from the very first Donna Hay cookbook I ever saw was Hoisin Chicken with Green Onion Pancakes. I’ve been making some version of this for probably about 6 years now, and a lot has changed in terms of the chicken and condiments that I use, but those pancakes are absolutely fantastic. Below is a rough approximation of the meal I tend to make with them. (The marinade I usually use is “throw a bunch of Asian-ish stuff in a bag until it tastes right, then add chicken,” but I tried to quantify it a bit better here…)
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Marinated Chicken with Scallion Pancakes
1/4 C Hoisin sauce
1/4 C soy sauce
2 T honey (or brown sugar, depending on your mood)
1-3 T finely grated ginger
2-4 garlic cloves, minced
1-2 T Asian chili-garlic sauce
1 T toasted sesame oil
2kg boneless, skinless chicken thighs
1 English cucumber, cut 1-inch segments then julienned
6-10 scallions, finely sliced
Hoisin, for serving
Sriracha (or other delicious hot sauce), for serving
1 batch of Donna Hay’s Scallion Pancakes (recipe below)
Combine the first 7 ingredients (Hoisin through sesame oil). Season with salt, pepper, and/or any of those 7 ingredients to taste, then add the chicken. Marinate for several hours or (ideally) overnight.
Preheat a gas grill.** Remove chicken from marinade and grill until just cooked through. Allow to rest, then slice into roughly bite-sized pieces. Prepare the pancakes while the chicken cooks and rests. You should now have a counter of ingredients looking something like this (only with Sriracha instead of random delicious hot sauce purchased in Dubai):
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Serves 4.
Donna Hay’s Scallion Pancakes
1 C all-purpose flour
1/2 C rice flour
3 eggs
1 1/2 C milk
Pinch of sea salt
1 T sesame oil
6 scallions, thinly sliced
Combine flour, rice flour, eggs, milk, salt, and sesame oil in a bowl and whisk until smooth. Add additional milk or flour if needed to get a thin crepe-batter-like consistency. Stir in the scallions.
Spray a sauté pan with oil and place over medium-high heat. (Or, if you don’t have sprayable oil, drizzle a small amount of oil in the pan and wipe with a paper towel to leave only a light coating.) Add about 1/3 C of the batter to the pan and swirl the pan a bit to spread the batter thinly. Cook for about 2 minutes on each side or until lightly browned. The top will look mostly dry, possibly with a few small popped air bubbles, when it’s time for to flip the pancake the first time. (It usually takes an imperfect pancake or two before you get a feel for the best temperature for the stovetop and the right amount of oil.) Depending on your pan, you will need to reapply oil after every 1 or 2 pancakes.
Makes about 8 or 9 pancakes. Keep the pancakes warm (e.g. covered with a tea towel on a plate in a low oven) until ready to serve.
*I now own 7 of Donna Hay’s books (including Flavors) and subscribed to her magazine for two years when I lived in Melbourne, so it turns out that money-saving trip to the library was actually quite expensive in the end…
**Again, this can be done under the broiler in your oven if you don’t have a gas grill at your disposal.